Excavating Under Semeru’s Shadow

Many years ago Java was flat. Barren, vacant, and seizing with earthquakes, the island floated freely in the Indian Ocean. That is, until the gods desired to fill Java with people. Shiva ordered Brahma and Vishnu to settle Java. Watching the island tumble and shake they decided to secure the island first. Together the gods nailed Java down using a piece of Mt. Mahameru–the center of the universe–borrowed from India. Java became still and the gods were pleased.

The gods had placed Mt. Mahameru on western Java out of convenience. Shiva approved until he noticed the island began to sink. With the west underwater and the east tilted up, Brahma and Vishnu returned to finish their task. They dragged Mt. Mahameru across Java scattering bits of the volcano along their path until they reached the east and the island balanced perfectly. Shiva was so pleased he made Mt. Mahameru his home. Today we know Mt. Mahameru as Mt. Semeru, Java’s tallest mountain and active volcano.

Idul Adha in Batu: A Tale of Dance, Shadow Puppets, and Slaughter

If bureaucracy can be elegant anywhere, don’t expect to find beauty at the immigration offices in Indonesia. My friend Joe and I went to update our files last weekend. Lucky for us our designated office is less than an hour away from Batu where our beloved first host families live. So we decided to stay the weekend. What’s more, they threw a really really big party to celebrate Idul Adha.

P.S. I got the idea for this short video format from a friend of a fellow volunteer. Check out their travels at 90 Second Travel. WARNING, after seeing this blog you might be tempted to cancel all plans for the next six months to backpack across Asia!

The Cacophony Before the Calm of Ramadan

The Koran at School

As a follow-up to My First Day at Madrasa, I wanted to share more about madrasa life. The following describes common happenings at school in which we can observe the role of religion, field notes style!

Education at an Indonesian madrasa is unique for the depth of Islamic influence and the focus on Indonesia’s neediest students. I’m sure I don’t need to remind my readers that not all madrasas in the world teach extremist values. Here’s one good report on Indonesia. Just like other schools here, madrasas are funded and administered by the state. Yes, madrasas are public schools! While regular schools also require uniforms, prayer, and obligatory religion class, madrasas go further.

My First Day at Madrasa

English teachers on the first day of school.

I teach at a madrasa.
BAM! I said it. MADRASA!
Now what does that mean?

Education in Indonesia lies at a fascinating entanglement of religion, politics, and nationalism. With all the room for overlap and conflict, if it were me in these students’ shoes I’d suffer an identity crisis. To try to get to the bottom of the Indonesian Problem one must wade through some murky issues related to education.

For now let me take you to my school; the place where the students wear ties and the teachers wear safari suits. Welcome to Madrasah Aliya Negari Lumajang, or God’s State Muslim School at Lumajang.